Serving as role models

A small group of Chinese menswear brands are trying to break into international markets

At the London Fashion Week in mid-February, Eve Cina became the first Chinese men's clothing brand at the major apparel trade show. Aiming to express in its line of clothes qi, which in Chinese lore is the original ingredient of life and the inner power of beauty, the brand's debut is not only a sign of its ambition to look overseas for new markets but of an untapped market for Chinese menswear.

A model displays Eve Cina's products, inspired by Chinese qi, at last month's London Fashion Week. [Provided to China Daily]

"There's this vast pool of opportunities," Joelle de Montgolfier, director of Bain & Co's division of consumer products, retail and luxury practices, told Women's Wear Daily. "The reality is that there is a market out there that is untapped, with emerging markets and a change in buying habits with men more concerned about the way they dress."

A small group of Chinese menswear brands, including Vlov, a designer and manufacturer of men's apparel headquartered in Xiamen; Zuoan, which distributes its men's clothing to retail stores and is headquartered in Shanghai; and Jefen, based in Beijing, are currently testing international markets.

"Although we have established three studios with 20 designers in Paris, London and Milan in the past, we began our entrance into the European market with the London show," says Xia Hua, chairman of Beijing-based Eve Group, which owns more than 400 boutique men's shops around China.

"We successfully attracted some buyers (during the fashion week). I think our clothes will be presented in Europe soon, and we are planning to open a boutique store in London this autumn."

Eve Cina will be positioned as a high-end brand with designs that incorporate Chinese elements. A coat will be priced at more than 6,000 yuan ($951, 721 euros), and a button-down shirt at more than 3,000 yuan, prices that would make Giorgio Armani fans blush.

Since its five clothing labels incorporated to form Eve Group in 1994, the company has been specializing in high-end men's wear. Its five brands are Eve de Uomo, Eve Cina, Notting Hill, Kevin Kelly and Jaques Pritt.

Xia says the company will focus on expressing Chinese philosophy in the brands based on historic Chinese handicrafts and refined aesthetic texture patterns.

One line from Eve Cina is called Mountain Water, which features traditional Chinese landscape paintings from the Song Dynasty. The style of Eve Cina's menswear aims for cultural elites and scholars, while grace and constraint describe its women's line.

"Many famous fashion brands have designs integrating Chinese history and culture, but I think the market has room for pure Chinese designs," Xia says.

But Xia complains that China has no qualified local sales and marketing talents.

"We are in an urgent need of locals to join our team to help us better understand the consumption habits and marketing channels in Europe," she says.

Su Baoyan, secretary-general of the China Fashion Association, says several Chinese menswear brands are trying to promote their brands globally but need to improve their marketing strategies.

"A lot of them have opened design studios in Europe or the United States, or tried to participate in important shows, but a critical mass of Chinese menswear brands has not formed in the market. In general, they are just testing and advertising in the market," Su says.

Vlov is another brand testing the market. In September, its men's collection was presented at the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week in New York City. The lifestyle brand targets middle-class men between the ages of 18 to 45. It works with 12 distributors who sell throughout China.

"After the show, some buyers came to my studio in New York, and we are now discussing with them about our cooperation and marketing in the new marketplace," says Wu Qingqing, founder of Vlov.

The average price for an article of clothing from Vlov's spring and summer collections is 1,300 yuan, compared with 3,000 yuan for its autumn and winter collections.

"The Chinese menswear market is full of similar middle-end brands and customers always have low loyalty toward them. We want to be more stylized and improve the brand's value," says Wu, a two-time winner of the Top Ten Fashion Designer Award at China Fashion Week.

In 2009, Wu opened a studio in New York City and focuses on minimalistic and contemporary look for men of all ages in his studio.

"Capturing fashion-forward designs in the front and center of vogue, we are preparing for the second step: selling our clothes in overseas markets," Wu says.

But Wu is cautious about marching into the international market.

"Designers have enough space to create a successful brand in the large and infant Chinese market. But it is very challenging to fight in a market filled with mature customers and brand operation models," Wu says.

It will be some time before Chinese menswear brands find their way in overseas markets. Although some have gained some exposure, they have to grow in their abilities to brand the label, manage the company and broaden their visions, Su says.

yaojing@chinadaily.com.cn