Contrasting delights

Changsha offers something old and new, and a cool place that's a hot spot

Ancient or modern, Changsha enjoys the best of both worlds. The capital of Hunan province also strikes a pleasing balance between its natural scenic surroundings and man-made wonders.

It is seen as traditional and progressive, peaceful and bustling, and - like its food - sweet and spicy. Like most cities in China, or even the nation as a whole, Changsha is full of amazing contrasts. And it is always worth a visit to experience them.

Today, as a production center for network TV entertainment, Changsha has become known as "Star City", but for the past 2,500 years or so, it has been "Long Sand Isle", named after the 6-kilometer-long shoal in the middle of the Xiangjiang River that borders the west side of the city.

Changsha was an important part of the State of Chu, one of the seven warring states that existed before China's unification by the Qin Dynasty (221-206 BC). However, although Qu Yuan, a famous Chinese poet, is commemorated today with the Dragon Boat Festival, it is the remnants of the subsequent Western Han Dynasty (206 BC-AD 24) that really puts the city on the historical map. The Mawangdui Han Tomb mound, with its remarkably well-preserved mummified remains almost rivals the Pyramids for fascination.

A more recent famous figure associated closely with Changsha is Mao Zedong. He came from the nearby village of Shaoshan, but began his career in Changsha where he was a student and teacher.

No surprise then that "Star City", with its 73 national and provincial-level relics and more than 240 protected historic sites, was designated as one of the first Famous Cities of History and Culture by the central government in 1982.

On the more practical side, as well as a centuries-old agricultural center, Changsha is also a major river port and thriving commercial and industrial city, primarily associated with food processing and the manufacture of construction machinery.

Whether you are there for business or pleasure, here are a few things not to be missed.

1.Hunan Provincial Museum

Located next to Martyr's Park in the city's Kaifu district, the Hunan Provincial Museum was built in 1951, but was only open to the public in 1974. The museum has a huge collection of cultural relics unearthed around Hunan, and exhibits the cultural development of the province over thousands of years.

The 110,000 relics are broadly classified into bronzes, silk paintings and books, lacquers, textiles, ceramics, paintings and calligraphy. Masterpieces by famous calligraphers such as Wang Xizhi from the Tang Dynasty (AD 618-907) are on display here, but the main attraction must be the grave items from the Mawangdui Han Tombs.

2. Mawangdui Han Tombs

In the eastern suburbs of Changsha, this tomb mound provides an insight into the glorious Western Han Dynasty.

Excavated between 1972 and 1974, Mawangdui consists of three grand but intricate tombs, believed to be for a noble family 2,000 years ago. More than 3,000 relics have been unearthed from the site, such as lacquer ware and exceptionally well-preserved fine silk garments and paintings. The No 1 tomb contains the mummified body of a woman in her 50s. It was so well preserved that researchers were able to perform an autopsy on it.

The earliest known version of Dao De Jing, the main text of Taoism, was also discovered in the tombs.

3. Yuelu Academy

Located on the east side of Yuelu Mountain and on the west bank of the Xiangjiang River, the Yuelu Academy is the nation's only academy of classical learning in continuous operation for the past thousand years. It was established in 976, and renowned Confucian scholars Zhu Xi and Zhang Shi both lectured here.

In 1926 the academy officially became Hunan University, a milestone in the development of China's modern higher education. Today, Yuelu is one of the most important academic and cultural centers in China.

4. Orange Isle

Juzizhou, or Orange Isle, is part of the alluvial sandbar in the Xiangjiang River, which stretches from Yuelu Mountian on the west side to downtown Changsha on the eastern bank. Opened to the public in 1960, the island has been developed as a scenic park featuring gardens, entertainment, sports, culture and commercial activities.

As its name suggests, Orange Isle is best known for its splendid orange groves, which boast more than 400 varieties of oranges, including summer orange, American navel and, of course, mandarin. Orchards of plum, bamboo, peach and cinnamon trees can also be found here.

The isle has long been a popular site for summer vacations. In his youth, Mao Zedong is reported to have spent much time here swimming and sunbathing. You can still see him today in the form of a 32-meter-high sculpture.

On the west side of the island, there is a 600-meter-long artificial beach and an outdoor swimming pool.

Eating and drinking

As in the name of the river that also means "delicious", the food of the region is known as Xiang cuisine. As part of Hunan cuisine, it rivals Sichuan province in reputation for its distinctively hot and spicy flavors. Not surprisingly many "food streets" have sprung up in the city. Best known are Wulipai and Pozi streets.

Wulipai Street, near the railway station, is a good place to find delicious dishes at reasonable prices. Visitors can taste a variety of food - taro, fish, assorted meats and vegetables - all steamed in earthen bowls.

Bustling Pozi Street is the place to go for Changsha snacks, as well as to see the famous Fire God Palace and Temple. Pozi Street is always busy. Local specialties to try include Changsha rice and milk cakes, and spicy salted duck. While eating the delicious and authentic Hunan snacks, you can also enjoy tea and listen to Hunan opera at the Fire God Temple.

China Daily