The exotic secrets of Cow Street

Her parents and all her eight siblings worked together to run the restaurant and learn from others how to make different Hui snacks, of which they now have 50 different kinds, she says.

"My father reckoned that before we sold food to others we must enjoy it ourselves."

Hong, born in Niujie, moved out when she married, but each time she returned for a visit "I would take this really deep breath when I was in the neighborhood."

She then decided to move back into the area.

There is always a long line outside Hongji Snack, and as it has relocated, so have those lines. Hong says that most customers are from outside Niujie, its reputation having grown thanks to word-of-mouth recommendations.

These days, too, young people are ordering takeaway from Hongji Snack on their smartphones. Hong's nephew, who helps in the restaurant, has advised Hong to open an online shop.