Yunnan's Honghe: Historic towns, ethnic nationalities and a unique cross-border railway

Reflecting periods of commercial prosperity were grand residences, such as the private garden of the Zhu Family. An exquisite complex of yards, water, gardens and residences it also offered hotel accommodation with delightfully furnished rooms.

Heading several kilometers out beyond the urban core a three-wheeled 'tuk-tuk' transported me through the countryside before passing through a narrow market alley leading down to the confluence of the Lu and Tachung rivers. There stood one of Jianshui's remarkable structures - the 17 arched Twin Dragon Bridge (Shuanlongqiao). With small pavilions at either end a large three story tower rose in the middle. An old man smoking a large pipe sat there while women with infants strapped to their backs walked across it. I spent an hour wandering along and under the bridge (January is dry season). Around Jianshui there are numerous Qing-era stone bridges, many still used. For the traveler, these are great locations to look across nearby agricultural communities.

Heading back towards Kunming I stopped for a couple of days at Tonghai, walking on forested Xiushan hill while enjoying the tranquility of its famed temples. There I realized that even after almost three weeks exploring Honghe, so much still remained to discover.

Today the meter gauge railway from Kunming to Hekou only carries freight trains. A recently completed standard-gauge line connects both cities via Yuxi, Tonghai, Jianshui and Menzi.