Buns, beef, stars and stripes

"When we first opened, hamburger culture was pretty undeveloped in Shanghai," Bray says. The reference for a hamburger for most local guests was either McDonald's or Malone's so it was a challenge to start serving a burger that cost two or three times more.

"However, we also learned that the local market is discerning when it comes to quality and specialization. Once they tried our hamburger, they recognized its value and then became repeat guests."

Standing out from the competition will not be an easy task for burger brands. According to Meituan Dianping, the leading on-demand online service provider in China, there are more than 3,200 shops selling hamburgers in Shanghai.

Many places have banked on the novelty factor to distinguish themselves. In 2017, French bakery Bread Etc unveiled a burger that replaced the typical bun with a croissant. That same year, Oh My Burger debuted its unique offerings that replaced the bread with doughnuts and even buns made of ramen and spaghetti. Despite photos of its burgers being shared widely on social media, the venue closed in early 2018 after less than a year in operation.

Most recently, chef Joey Cheung of Umaami has been on the quest to elevate the common burger to a gastronomic spectacle. But instead of novelty, Cheung's approach is solely focused on quality.