Pride of place and plate

"In Yongping, if you find a good ham, you can cut it and the milky fragrance will emerge. You can roast the slices for a few seconds and eat them with a pot of boiled vegetables and local kaoliang liquor. It's truly enjoyable."

Liu started his culinary journey at age 18. He specialized in Cantonese fare for the first 10 years.

"Understanding and creating Cantonese cuisine helps me cook Yunnan food," he believes.

For example, Yunnan cooks clean fish by slicing their bellies and carving out the insides, while Cantonese chefs scoop organs from the creature's mouth to avoid damaging the body, he says.

Liu learned Yunnan is home to a dozen mint varieties during his last trip home. Some taste citric. Some are milky. And some seem cooling.

"I learn about new plants each time I return," he says.

The province's meats are also unique.