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Exhibition showcases Tiffany designer who harnessed forces of nature

By Lin Qi | China Daily | Updated: 2019-07-18 08:04
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Jean Schlumberger took inspiration from nature to design classic jewelry, including a bird brooch, a necklace featuring jasmine-flower patterns and a jellyfish brooch. His work is currently on show in Beijing.[Photo provided to China Daily]

But Schlumberger knew he had no taste for numbers, so he quit and moved to Paris to pursue a career in jewelry design. His talent then caught the attention of Elsa Schiaparelli, and the Italian couturier soon hired Schlumberger to design jewelry and buttons for her collections.

After World War II, Schlumberger moved to New York to start a small salon with his friend and later longtime partner Nicolas Bongard (1908-2000).

In 1956, they were approached by Tiffany's president Walter Hoving to open a workshop of their own at the company, which ran until their retirement in late 1970s.

One noteworthy feature of Schlumberger's designs is the innovative way he transformed the wonders of nature-exotic flowers, birds and sea life-into objects of splendor by utilizing gemstones of various kinds and a dynamic palette.

He is known for frequently traveling to South Asia-Sri Lanka, Thailand, Indonesia and the Philippines-and the Caribbean, where he was constantly amazed by the dramatic beauty of the indigenous plants and wildlife. And this inspired him to recreate this energy back in his studio.

During one of their trips, Bongard recalled Schlumberger finding a seashell covered in seaweed, and the next day he saw in Schlumberger's room a rough sketch of designs inspired by the shell.

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