Weekend wander in the eternal city

The other exhibition, Rare Murals from Tang Dynasty, was the result of Sino-Italian conservation efforts to preserve murals taken from the royal tombs of that era. The nearly 100 colorful large-format murals on display were taken from tombs in and around Xi'an and kept in the temperature and humidity controlled rooms to preserve them.

The exhibition has been creatively designed so that the visitor can walk through long corridors and giant halls with the exquisite large murals displayed on either side - and sometimes above them on the ceiling too. The atmosphere is tranquil, the lighting is dim but adequate, and the space is well ventilated.

Some murals show the tomb owners leading their armies into battle, their chivalry and parades. Some depict them visiting beautiful gardens, attending drinking parties, or being entertained by musicians and dancers. Others paint the galaxies and legendary animals, such as the black dragon, the white tiger or mythical birds.

A polo game is depicted in one of the largest murals. More than 20 horses can be seen galloping through a field and sparse woods, their riders wearing white or brown robes, black boots, holding a bridle in one hand and the polo stick in the other. A diplomatic scene was portrayed in another mural, in which three envoys with facial features and costumes arguably hailing from Byzantine Empire, the Korean Peninsula and the Russian Far East.

Apart from the Stele Forest and the museum, the old downtown neighborhood, which centers around Hongzhuan Nanlu Road, is worth a gourmet exploration.