Shanghai begins the gradual climb back

Impetus for change

In addition to screening measures such as health QR code checks and measuring customers' temperature, restaurant and bar owners have been forced to adjust their operations to stay afloat during the pandemic.

At Bites and Bottle-O, this has meant reducing staff members, working hours and wages. At The Union Trading Co, Yao has adopted a "drink the bar dry" strategy－purchasing new stock has been halted temporarily until current supplies are depleted. His bartenders have also agreed to be paid on an hourly, instead of monthly, basis.

With consumers still wary about the threat of infection in public areas, business owners have had to diversify their income streams.

For example, Hu organized pop-up events and movie nights in private rooms and made guest appearances at other dining establishments, while The Union Trading Co considered introducing online cocktail classes.

Many restaurants and bars have also introduced delivery services.

In March, The Union Trading Co collaborated with Laiba Beverages, a company supplying bottled cocktails, to deliver a special collection of these drinks to customers in Shanghai and across the country. At Bites and Bottle-O, a new delivery menu was launched, consisting of dishes suitable for reheating.

Even upscale restaurants such as Mr and Mrs Bund, a fine-dining venue by French chef Paul Pairet, have jumped on the bandwagon, with the eatery making some of its dishes available for delivery.

However, a delivery menu is just a stopgap measure for most businesses.

While deliveries accounted for about 20 percent of Hu's revenue, Chow and Yao said their earnings from this source had little impact on their overall business.

Yao said: "During the lockdown, deliveries were important in a sense that we needed every penny we could get, and we made just enough to essentially cover staff salaries. Besides, offering deliveries also requires manpower, and there are very low margins. We decided to stop deliveries after reopening, as this is more cost-effective.

"Also, even though we received some good media coverage of our delivery initiative, it is not something that can replace the human connection you get in a place like a bar."