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Italy's fashion brands have Chinese connection

Immigrants from Wenzhou collaborate with local counterparts to transform clothing business

By WANG MINGJIE and DJ CLARK in Prato, Italy | China Daily Global | Updated: 2024-01-30 10:01
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An aerial view of the city of Prato in Tuscany region, central Italy. DJ CLARK/CHINA DAILY

In 2000, he ventured beyond the fast fashion industry and established a midrange clothing company called Giupel, which does some of its own designs.

Over time, the Chinese community in Prato has experienced a notable transformation, embracing the entrepreneurial spirit of their hometown, Wenzhou in Zhejiang province, while carving their own path.

"Wenzhou people are very smart," Wang Zengli, a Chinese business owner in Prato, said. "After working in the Italian factories for a while, they realized it wasn't difficult to operate such factories.

"Gradually, between 2000 and 2006, they all became their own bosses. Fast fashion reached its peak between 2005 and 2010. Almost the whole of Europe flocked here to place their orders."

The influx of Chinese immigrants into Prato brought about economic growth, but also gave rise to feelings of grudge among some locals.

As the Chinese population continued to increase, these issues became politicized, with right-wing politicians making promises to take stronger measures against them.

Lamberto Gestri, former president of the greater Prato Province, said: "Prato has a long history of immigration, starting with internal migration within the Tuscany region, where people from other parts of Tuscany moved to Prato in search of employment opportunities. Later on, immigration from both the northern and southern parts of Italy also contributed to the city's diverse population."

But the arrival of the Chinese community brought a unique dynamic to Prato, Gestri said.

"The Chinese community has a distinct vision and mentality that differs from the Italian population. They have a strong emphasis on work and productivity," he said. "These cultural differences have occasionally led to conflicts, as the Chinese way of doing business and their work ethic have posed challenges for Italian industries trying to compete. These conflicts have been one of the reasons for tensions between the two communities."

Daniele Cologna, a professor at the University of Insubria and an expert on Chinese immigrants in Italy, said the blame for financial losses experienced by businesspeople in Prato lies with the Italians themselves.

"The fact that Italians were losing money had nothing to do with the Chinese; it had to do with the fact that the Prato garment district was unable to find a way to relaunch its business model in a globalized economy, and that is not on the Chinese, it's on us, it's on Italians," he explained.

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