Sommelier gets art down to a 'tea'

Today, Ji has become a master at the art of pairing food with tea. At Lu Shang Lu, the tea menu she and her team crafted offers 22 varieties, covering all major tea categories in China except for the lesser-known yellow tea.

"We've also included a selection of caffeine-free options, such as herbal and fruit teas, for guests who are sensitive to caffeine," she explains.

When it comes to pairing, Ji carefully considers the flavors and ingredients of each dish. "For example, our signature shrimp paste with steamed buns pairs beautifully with aged white tea. For seafood, we typically opt for green tea," she says.

A classic Lu dish, stewed pork intestines, with its bold, rich flavors, is paired with ripe Pu'er tea. "The aroma of Pu'er is subtle, while its mouthfeel is full and robust. It also helps cut through the richness of the dish," Ji explains.

In addition to creating thoughtful tea pairings for special menus, Ji customizes her recommendations based on individual guests and the dishes they order.

"We take into account factors like the weather and the guest's health when selecting the right tea," she adds. For example, in winter, when the air is dry and chilly, Ji often suggests brewing a pot of aged white tea.

Ji is also constantly exploring new brewing methods, such as using a coffee press for tea and experimenting with unique combinations of flowers and fruits.

For Ji, tea service is a lifelong journey. "Chinese tea culture is constantly evolving, and our tea-making techniques are advancing as well. There's always something new to learn and explore."

Du's first impression of Ji was of someone deeply passionate about both people and tea. "When we started exploring tea and food pairings at Jiyue Tea, the field was nearly untouched. Ji's enthusiasm was key to blending dining with Chinese tea culture," Du says.

"Ji is also incredibly resilient. Being a tea sommelier requires not just tea knowledge but an understanding of food and the entire restaurant workflow," Du adds. Having worked in nearly every restaurant role, Ji has a comprehensive understanding of operations and the vital role of tea service in promoting tea culture.

In recent years, Du's team has partnered with over 20 restaurants in Beijing, half of which are Michelin-starred. Du has seen firsthand how tea service is becoming an essential part of high-end dining.

"Ji's Michelin Sommelier Award has been a major boost for our team and the wider tea industry in China," Du says. "We aim to continue exploring tea and food pairings and inspire more people to appreciate Chinese tea."

Contact the writer at liyingxue@chinadaily.com.cn