Reading the past in the bones of Beijing's historical alleys

Editor's note: Several Chinese cities maintain their cultural recollections in the form of historical neighborhoods that add to their multilayered charm and vigor. China Daily journeys to some of these timeless areas, where President Xi Jinping has left his footprints and remarked on the preservation and vitalization of heritage. In this installment, we take a walk through Nanluoguxiang in downtown Beijing, one of the ancient hutong (alleyway) neighborhoods that have preserved the capital's authentic tastes.

Changes to capital's traditional neighborhoods maintain their vibrant heritage, while pleasing residents and visitors alike, Chen Nan reports.

When people set out to discover Beijing, the capital has many historic and iconic landmarks to tempt them. There is the Forbidden City, the imperial palace where 24 emperors lived between 1420 and 1911, which is located in the heart of Beijing. There is the Summer Palace, a massive imperial garden built in 1750. And of course, on the outskirts of Beijing, there is the Great Wall of China.

For those who wish to glimpse the city's past in between the skyscrapers, subway tunnels and parks, there's one more thing not to be missed: the capital's ancient hutong (alleyway) neighborhoods.

The narrow hutong running between walled courtyards transport those who wander them back to the Yuan Dynasty (1271-1368) — when many of them were built — and conjure images of a lifestyle that contrasts sharply with the fast pace of modern life.

Nanluoguxiang, which is known as one of Beijing's most famous and historically rich alleyways, is a particularly popular tourist destination. Located in Dongcheng district, it is one of the city's most iconic alleyways, partly due to its ancient urban form.

If viewed from above, Nanluoguxiang is laid out like a fish bone, with a 787-meter main street stretching from East Gulou Street in the north to Ping'an Street in the south. It is about eight meters wide and smaller alleyways, such as Yu'er Hutong and Dongmianhua Hutong, branch off it on both sides.

Li Changlin, a lifelong resident of Nanluoguxiang, leans against the door frame of his humble siheyuan (courtyard house), looking out at a bustling alley that has dramatically transformed over the seven decades that he has lived here.

"When I was young, Nanluoguxiang was a quiet, tight-knit community," he says in a soft voice tinged with nostalgia. "There were food markets and grocery stores near my house. I walked to school every day with my friends, who were also my neighbors. The air was full of the sounds of children playing, old people chatting, and the ringing of bicycle bells.

"This alleyway raised me," Li adds with a smile. "And now it's raising everyone else's expectations of what a hutong should be."