The fantastic Colour Run House event at school. [Photo provided to en.wuxi.gov.cn]
It was the end of 2020 when I received the news that I had been successful in securing my dream job – Head of School at King's College International School, Wuxi. I was both excited, and a little daunted at the prospect. I had never been to China, I didn't speak any Chinese, and I really had no idea what to expect. However, my wife is Chinese, and she's very nice, so that was a good start.
It took longer than expected to get all the visa paperwork in place, but finally, in June 2021, I packed my suitcase along with a mountain of paperwork and boarded a plane bound for China. I was the only foreigner on the flight but my fellow passengers were all very friendly and keen to try out their English with me once we got chatting. All I could say at this point was 'nihao' which I did, resulting in cries of delight and compliments on my excellent Chinese!
Enjoying a "Gold and Green" Staff Appreciation Event. [Photo provided to en.wuxi.gov.cn]
Upon arrival in Wuxi airport, I was immediately stumped because I couldn't read the instructions on an app I had installed on my phone, which I needed to be processed. I stood looking lost and bewildered for a few seconds, before a lovely airport employee spotted me and came to my rescue. She pressed a few keys on my phone and I was helped through passport and visa checks before being finally released into the wonderful world of Wuxi.
Savouring the lush lavender fields of Xuelang Mountain. [Photo provided to en.wuxi.gov.cn]
My school had assigned me an assistant who spoke excellent English. Honestly, I would have been lost without her and wouldn't have known where to start. She helped me find an apartment, set up a bank account and get the all-important SIM card for my phone. She also showed me the basics of WeChat, Alipay and Taobao – essential tools for life in China! So, I began to set up home in Wuxi. At first, this was a challenge. I remember going to a small convenience store to buy some batteries for my TV remote. I went to pay at the counter but the lady said something in Chinese. After a while, I realized that she wanted me to use an automatic payment machine. I scanned the package and the machine displayed a message in Chinese, which of course I couldn't read. So I stood there feeling a bit silly, with people queueing behind me. And of course, I was immediately rescued by those very same people. They were so friendly and helpful, showing me how to access my payment code on WeChat and scan the little window on the machine. Of course, at first, I felt a little apprehensive, letting complete strangers go through my phone. I am from the UK, and I half expected my bank account to have been emptied and my identity stolen. And that, right there, as I was to discover, is the difference. Wuxi people are so extraordinarily helpful, friendly and trustworthy! I had never experienced such a safe, welcoming place full of warm and helpful people. Although I was stared at in the street, it was never rude or threatening. It was fascination. My wife calls it "staring curiously". (Indeed, I stare at Lao Wai myself now, if I don't recognize them!). It is safe to walk through the streets at midnight. It is safe to leave your phone on a table by mistake, and when you go back, it will still be there. At home it would be gone within a minute.
So, I quickly settled in to life in Wuxi, began to learn Chinese, and explored the local parks, temples, shopping areas and restaurants. I couldn't believe that 5 minutes' walk from a busy shopping center, you could be in the middle of acres of beautifully landscaped parkland with lakes, rivers and lots of people having picnics complete with karaoke machines, tents and barbecues.
Participating in one of the many fantastic productions in our school auditorium. [Photo provided to en.wuxi.gov.cn]
China is not easy at first for single foreigners if they don't speak or read Chinese. You need an app for everything, from using public transport to paying your electricity bill. Luckily for me, I had lots of help from my colleagues at school and also from my wife, which made things much easier. I was amazed by the convenience and organization. As well as the price of things. (Taobao quickly became my best friend as I started to fill my house with things I do not need but cost one tenth of the price they would back in the UK). For a city of around 7 million people, I was pleasantly surprised by the lack of crowds, the wide open spaces and the spotlessly clean and efficient transport systems of Wuxi.
I quickly settled into my new role at school (best students in the world), and the rhythm of Chinese life, punctuated by wonderful Chinese festivals and foods, and my involvement with the vibrant expat community events.
Four years later, and my Chinese has improved (a bit) and I have come to love the ebb and flow of life in the beautiful city of Wuxi (although I have still not warmed to the pleasures of tofu). I have travelled fairly extensively in China now, but it's Wuxi that I call home.
The author is the Head of King's College International School, Wuxi.
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