Innovation heats up classic cuisine

Once a Lingnan (a region encompassing Guangdong and Hainan provinces, the Guangxi Zhuang autonomous region, and parts of Yunnan and Fujian provinces) showpiece, Baihua Chicken vanished from menus, too complex and unprofitable to make. Skinned whole and stuffed with shrimp mousse, it was dubbed "chicken without the chicken", a dish chefs feared for its precision.

One wrong cut could ruin it all, but Hong Kong-born chef Homan Tsui, 43, returned the forgotten classic back onto the menu.

At MGM Macau Hotel's Imperial Court, he deep-fries the chicken skin to a golden crisp. Traditional honey is swapped for maltose syrup while the skin is bathed, air-dried, and pressed into a caramel-tinted sheet, making it crisp, elegant, and irresistible.

Just before service, Tsui shaves freeze-dried horsehead fish, a local delicacy, over the hot skin, releasing a punch of umami that's as aromatic as it is flavorful.

Beneath the chicken, he lays a delicate "fishing net" handwoven from dandan — a wheat snack that gets its name from the wooden or bamboo baskets from which street vendors sold them in ancient times — noodles as a nod to Macao's seafaring heritage. Droplets of yellow plum sauce are dotted across the net, offering a bright, tangy dip that rounds the dish out with refreshing balance.

The reinvention of Baihua Chicken gained early attention when it appeared in season four of the food documentary series Once Upon A Bite. Diners began chasing the dish they saw on their screens, but that was only the beginning, Tsui says. He continuously refines every element with discipline and vision.

In 2025, his efforts paid off. Tsui's Lingnan Crispy Chicken Skin with Shrimp Mousse and Salted Fish Flakes won the coveted Annual Dish Award at the Black Pearl Restaurant Guide Awards for Hong Kong, Macao and Overseas Regions.

"Reviving a forgotten dish takes obsession and persistence," Tsui says. "We treat it as a team effort, where every detail counts. It's the only way to uphold the standard."

"What began as an obscure, old-school recipe is now a signature item every guest asks for. It took time, risk, and heart."

He also credits his behind-the-scenes team for their unwavering support and selfless dedication: "It's a shared victory."

For Tsui, this award-winning dish is more than a culinary feat, it's also a tribute to Lingnan heritage and a love letter to the cuisine he has spent years mastering. The Imperial Court also earned a prestigious One-Diamond rating in the 2023-2025 Black Pearl Guide.

Meituan's vice-president Wei Wei notes that Black Pearl Restaurant Guide selections are based on Meituan and Dianping's vast databases of consumer behavior and user reviews. The process is supported by a professional judging system, now enhanced with AI technology to help uncover outstanding restaurants worldwide more efficiently.

"Every Black Pearl restaurant represents the pinnacle of its culinary culture. We hope that, through food, Black Pearl can help global diners discover not only exquisite flavors but the cultural stories behind them," Wei says.

At the hotel restaurant, Tsui is known for more than just his celebrated Baihua Chicken; He has breathed new life into many nearly forgotten Lingnan dishes. The restaurant draws visitors from around the globe while also serving as a popular spot for locals to gather.