Authentic Chinese food meets bold reds in Italy

MILAN — In the heart of Milan, just steps from the famous Brera Gallery, a cozy neighborhood restaurant is drawing locals with an unexpected yet delightful combination: Chinese braised dishes paired with Italian wine.

At ZioZio, many Italian food enthusiasts are discovering the flavors and traditions behind Sichuan-style Chinese braised cuisine. The region's humid climate and use of Sichuan peppercorns have shaped a distinctive preference for numbing, spicy and aromatic flavors, often found in dishes meant to be savored slowly.

Diners are often surprised to find how seamlessly these rich, layered flavors complement Italian wines, creating a unique interplay between East and West.

"We wanted to create a restaurant for the local community from the very beginning," says Wang Haoran and Zeng Xiaotang, two young art graduates — one specializing in music and the other in design — who founded ZioZio after completing their studies in Italy. "By pairing Chinese braised dishes with the red wines Italians love, we hope to spark curiosity about new flavor combinations and introduce more people to the richness of China's regional food cultures."

Their concept has resonated with Milan's locals. "In recent years, more authentic Chinese cuisines have appeared in Italy and Europe, offering greater variety and cultural experiences that people truly appreciate," says regular customer Gianluca Corrias.

ZioZio's snug space of 15 square meters often hums with the lively chatter of locals. Some guests drop by after work to enjoy wine with braised beef and bamboo shoots, while others linger to chat with friends. Ahead of the Mid-Autumn Festival, Wang and Zeng prepared mooncakes, inviting Italian customers to taste the traditional treat and learn about the holiday's meaning.

"The dishes here are authentic, not the tourist kind," says customer Caterina Cecconi. "I've never been to China, but now I really want to visit and meet more Chinese people."

In Rome, another small eatery is also winning hearts with authentic Chinese flavors. Jiamo Lab, named after its signature snack roujiamo, a traditional Chinese flatbread stuffed with braised meat, has become a local favorite, even appearing on popular media recommendation lists.

Located near a 460-year-old city wall designed by Michelangelo, Jiamo Lab offers not just food but also stories. The restaurant's walls are lined with information about the origins of roujiamo and its birthplace, the ancient city of Xi'an in Northwest China's Shaanxi province.

"When we dine here, we're drawn to the cultural stories on the walls. They make us want to learn more about Chinese history," says customer Simona Baltieri.

"Chinese cuisine is an ideal way to share our culture," says owner Hu Chenqiang. "With Xi'an roujiamo, we naturally talk about the Qin Dynasty (221-206 BC) and the Terracotta Warriors."

For decades, Chinese cuisine abroad often meant fried rice or sweet-and-sour pork. Now, a new generation of Chinese restaurateurs is changing that perception, introducing authentic regional specialties, from Sichuan snacks to Xi'an street food, across Italy and the rest of Europe.

Hu is determined to stay true to traditional flavors. "The more confidence we have in our own culture, the more interest foreigners will show in it," he says.

Inside Jiamo Lab, visitors can also find information about China's visa-free policies and guidance on using mobile payment apps, part of Hu's effort to help curious diners prepare for future trips to China.

Hu says he hopes his restaurant will become a genuine part of local life, encouraging cultural exchange, especially among young people.

Regular customer Francesca Fatica believes these efforts go beyond food. Authentic Chinese cuisine is more than food, it is a bridge between cultures too, she says. "It's time to showcase more of China's traditions, allowing the world to see the true richness of Chinese culture."

Xinhua