If it hadn't been for someone pressing a menu and map into my hand in the street, I'd have remained blissfully unaware of Ninja Food's existence.

Tucked away down a rather unpromising looking lane in Sanlitun, you quickly conclude it is cursed with a truly terrible location.

That's a great pity because the Japanese-style restaurant has much to recommend it. It might even be called one of Sanlitun's best-kept secrets. And heaven knows, there aren't many of those.

A picture menu in Chinese, Japanese and English makes ordering easier than finding a pirate DVD seller on Sanlitun Lu.

And you've got to admire a menu that includes a truly disgusting-looking dish called The Devil's Tongue and admits that while it doesn't taste good, it IS healthy. Yours for just 25 yuan (US$3)...

Set meals ranging from 40-70 yuan (US$4.80-8.45) are a good starting point. Sashimi, kushiage and tempura are all options on a menu that also features an inspired western-style child set meal (45 yuan/US$5.43) to cover fussy eaters.

If the Devil's Tongue leaves your little one speechless, they can't turn their noses up at a pork burger, deep fried fish slices, French fries and strawberry ice cream.

Each dish is beautifully presented on dainty small plates, the attention to detail in synch with the thoughtful interior design which finds space for floor-level Japanese-style tables, upturned umbrellas and delicate overhead lamps.

The waitresses, who seem to be able to muster a little Japanese and English, are suitably attired and the chef apparently takes pride in presentation of his dainty dishes.

More traditional tastes will find asparagus and beef, Japanese and beef noodles while hardcore enthusiasts of all things Japanese will revel in the sashimi dish (80 yuan/US$9.65).

Clean, quiet (it seems no one can find it, though in truth it's not THAT hard: it's right next to the well-signposted Cross Club) and friendly, it's as pleasant an introduction to Japanese food as you'll find in the area.

Location: Sanlitun Beili, Beiyilou

Tel: 6413-2241