Courtyard Classics
By Ye Jun ( Beijing Weekend)
Updated: 2004-04-06 10:29

The taste of culture is as significant as the taste of the food in Beijing's hutong and courtyard restaurants.

When people talk about the unique characteristics of Beijing, hutong always come to mind.

Indeed it is no exaggeration to say that the hutong, or narrow, often winding residential lanes, represent living history. Most of the existing hutong around the Forbidden City were built in the Yuan (1206-1368), Ming (1368-1644) and Qing (1644-1911) dynasties.

In 1946, there were 3,065 hutong. Since the People's Republic of China was founded in 1949, some were linked together while others have been named. Until recently the number of hutongs has been more than 4,000.

With the modernization of the city, many hutong face, or have succumbed to, the wrecking ball. But people still try to seek a trace of Beijing's traditions from those that are left.

A number of hutong courtyard restaurants are located inside former residences of princes, princesses and important Qing Dynasty officials.

Many of them try to revive the way of life lived by these high-brows of ancient China.

In some of them, waiters and waitresses dress in typical Qing Dynasty costumes and line up in the courtyard to greet guests. That can make you feel as though you have travelled back 100 years in time.

Others have well-preserved gardens, where pavilions, ornamental rocks, ancient trees and flowers add to the dining experience.

Tables are either set in the courtyards, with a roofed top, or inside the living rooms, studies or bedrooms of the former Qing Dynasty aristocrats.

The food is often imperial or Beijing style while it is also possible to sample so-called home-style food.

Performances with a Qing Dynasty flavour are also sometimes available.