Man on a custom-made mission

Berluti's ready-to-wear menswear feature Italian, French and British design elements. On top are leather goods from Berluti.

Like his direction for the Berluti label, he believes the three-piece suit is an ensemble that tries once and returns for more, never to look back. If he convinced someone like Jeremy Irons (on their first meeting, no less) to wear a three-piece suit, he feels he can convince other customers to follow suit.

Sartori is such a believer in this look that he has an answer for every style dilemma associated with the three-piece suit.

"You will look fat only if your gilet is too tight or you have on a jacket that can't close," he advises. "If you have a perfectly fitted gilet under a single-breasted jacket that can close properly, you will look sharper. A single-breasted jacket is better because it leaves the gilet to be seen underneath. You can leave your jacket open to show the gilet but if you really can't close it, it will show. Double-breasted jackets must be worn alone."

Aside from the favored three-piece suit, Sartori recommends that every gentleman's wardrobe must have "a beautiful, handmade navy blazer in wool and mohair that is almost wrinkle free", and a pair of Berluti's Andy loafers in flannel gray because "I love medium dark colors that have a completely different shade. I'm not a fan of black but a beautiful brown, gray or even Bordeaux like our Saint Emilion (named after the prestigious vineyard) would go with everything." If you can only have one shirt, make it white and pair it with a blue seven-fold tie which "you will see really looks substantial and falls differently.

"It's good to be different and it's good to change. It's nice to change style and approach and have the freedom and pleasure to play like women do with clothes. Why not wear a beautiful leather biker jacket on top of a shirt and tie? Why do you have to wear it with a polo? It's boring," he says. " Being stylish gives you a different and better energy."