Handbags mirror social change

[Photo provided to China Daily]

Azoulay says the emancipation of women brought them into the job market and the growing mobility resulted in more demand for the handbag.

Tracing the recent history of the handbag, Azoulay says Coco Chanel was the first to name a handbag that she designed in 1955.

The bag "2.55" was named after the month and year in which it was created, when Chanel was 72 years old, she says.

Speaking of the materials used to make handbags, Azoulay says leather, a more firm and durable material compared with silk and other fabrics, was not used to make handbags until the early 20th century.

In fact, Chanel ingeniously made her signature bag using quilted leather and used lambskin like a fabric. It was inspired by the jackets worn by stable lads and stained glass windows near her convent school.

Azoulay says more iconic bags appeared later, often named after royals or celebrities, such as the Kelly bag, named after Grace Kelly, the Hollywood star and princess of Monaco.

Referring to the past few decades, Azoulay says as fashion turned more unisex and simple, featuring less color or decorations, the handbag became a piece that demonstrated the carrier's social status, fashion tastes and style choices.

That's why luxury fashion brands launched their signature pieces, known as the "IT" bags, often bearing large logos, she says.

"You can give people a good impression with a nice bag, even if you wear cheap clothes," says the curator.