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The world's finest brews

By Li Jing | China Daily | Updated: 2010-01-03 09:17

The world's finest brews

Whether you are a connoisseur or a novice, your search for rare and classic wines from around the globe should end at Beijing's Enoteca. Li Jing reports

Enoteca is a French word for wine shop. However, in Beijing, the word has become synonymous with the city's best wine bar.

Ensconced by a huge flight of stairs leading to the north end of The Place shopping street, Enoteca's sprawling bay windows allow an expansive view of the landscape outside.

Taking a window seat alone or with a squad of close friends and swinging to the tunes of romantic jazz music, which is neither too loud to spoil conversations nor so faint that it's almost as good as not being there, is a perfect way of breaking away from the worries and noise of city life.

Most importantly, here you could easily find a satisfactory glass of liquor from among a vast selection of wines, sourced from lands as diverse as Europe, South Africa and South America.

Value-for-money is the hallmark of the bar. Enoteca selects and imports wines directly from the wine producers. Its team of sommeliers and oenologists visit wine producing regions across the world. Prices start at 98 yuan a bottle, "usually half the price charged in restaurants or hotels," says Tomaz Hladnik, manager, Beijing Enoteca. For 200 yuan, you can get a bottle from a list of 15 wines, which comes with a free flow of delectable tapas.

Enoteca is also a good place to look for French and Argentinean wines. Its menu includes all typical and classic French and Argentinean wines, systematically covering the most important producing regions in these two countries. There are also wines from other countries such as Chile, Italy and Hungary. "Every month we add 20 to 30 new bottles and change 20 to 30 percent of the bottles a year." Hladnik adds they will expand the wine menu to cover American and Australian wines in the near future.

Know your flavors

Enoteca opened in Shanghai, as a wine-retailer in Changshu Lu. As the sales picked up, a branch was opened on Taicang Lu, a bar and lounge added, so that people could savor food crafted to complement wines while drinking. In the Olympic Year of 2008, Enoteca came to Beijing.

"The customers we have in Beijing are in a way different from that in Shanghai," says Hladnik. "Frankly, we don't have the same appreciation for wines in Beijing as in Shanghai, partly because we don't have so many wine bars in Beijing as in Shanghai."

You don't have to be an expert to enjoy wine, says Hladnik, noting that it is an acquired taste, developed along the way, "just like developing appreciation for an art work". Each person can appreciate it in his or her own way, he adds.

While the uninitiated might start with any brand, it makes no sense to go for one in the 1,000-yuan range. If you have not tried the 100-yuan variety, you will have no idea why another is worth 1,000 yuan.

The world's finest brews

"The more expensive the wine, the more complex its flavor," says Hladnik. An inexperienced person may not be able to fully appreciate the full and complex nature of an expensive brand. It would take a while to understand the texture and get used to its strong sour and astringent flavor, which, Hladnik says, is its distinctive feature and also the reason why it's not universally liked.

Light, fruity and semi-dry wines make smart choices for beginners, as these taste sweet and meet the expectation of something with a pleasant taste. A good beginning whets one's interest, encouraging people to try out more options

For those who are new to wines, Enoterra Chardonnay from Chile is a good choice, light and easy on one's system. This white wine touches one's palate with a light flavor of oak. Later one might try the intense and fine aromas of melons, mango and citrus characters. A taste that lingers and is absolutely fresh.

Wines for different occasions

Vinea Garganega Veronese from Italy (154 yuan per bottle)

A great wine to enjoy on its own or with a selection of cheese and seafood.

Van Loveren Pinotage from South Africa (163 yuan)

An elegant wine, featuring ripe banana, figs and summer fruit tones -- the perfect blend to be enjoyed with a light meal.

Chateau de Loriere - AOC Muscadet sur Lie from France (353 yuan)

Extracted from Burgundy Melon grape, this wine has highly complex features - goes well with seafood and vegetables with a strong flavor.

La Carissa - AOC Cotes du Roussillon Village from France (365 yuan).

With red berries, peppers and jam on the nose, this wine delivers the taste of ripe tannins, in a fine blend. A perfect wine to impress your friend or loved one.

Vina Alicia "Brote Negro" Malbec from Argentina (978 yuan)

This is for seasoned wine lovers and those who really want to make an impression. It is made with "black shoot" Malbec, a rarity found in a 115-year-old vineyard in Mendoza, Argentina. It comes with an incredible structure and immense depth.

Wine venues around town

Enoteca

The Place, 9A Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang district. 010-6587-1578. 朝陽區(qū)光華路甲9號(hào)

One East

2/F, Hilton Hotel Beijing, 1 Dongfanglu, Northern East Third Ring Road, Chaoyang district. 010-5865-5030. 朝陽區(qū)東三環(huán)北路東方路1號(hào)北京希爾頓酒店2層

Vineyard Wine Experience Shop

SH1030, 3/F, Tower 10, Jianwai SOHO, 39 East Third Ring Zhonglu, Chaoyang district. 010-5128-9169. 朝陽區(qū)東三環(huán)中路39號(hào)建外SOHO西區(qū)10號(hào)樓商鋪三層1030

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