New song at Aria

Photo provided to China Daily

Taylor says the kitchen, which has strict levels of hierarchy, is sometimes similar to an army.

"Every level is different, and has a challenge," he reveals.

He says he likes being chef de cuisine, because "it gives me the most freedom to be creative".

The chef now takes care of 15 people in the kitchen at Aria, including himself.

"You have to make sure they are happy, but also work hard," he says. "If somebody doesn't like what they do, one can always see it on the plate."

Taylor's father is Australian, and his mother is Chinese. When he was young, he had congee and red-bean buns for breakfast. He was not afraid to try chicken feet and pork blood.

"As a child I ate Chinese food. My palate is open to different things," he says.

But the chef wants to make sure he offers "honest Western food" at Aria, because he thinks that's what brings customers to the restaurant.

On the other hand, half of Aria's customers are Chinese people, who prefer their consomme not so salty, and who are very health-conscious.

Moreover, he needs to put out a much bigger menu in China than in Australia, with a broad price range from the widely affordable to the luxurious.