Fragrant harbor, French bistro-style

Floating Island is a signature dessert served at the Le Port Parfume restaurant in Hong Kong. Donna Mah / China Daily

The next two dishes were made with black truffles. Black truffles are known for being rare and for their incredible aroma.

The delicate and buttery phyllo pastry of the tart was topped with sweet caramelized onion with bacon and thin slices of black truffle. Light and crispy, with sweetness and saltiness from the onion and bacon, this dish is best enjoyed as soon as it is served as the pastry will become soggy if left for too long.

The black truffle and oxtail bouillon is a signature dish and is a top favorite of diners. The broth was bursting with intense beef flavor and served with julienned carrot and onion and shredded oxtail meat. It is a very comforting soup.

The USDA tenderloin with black-pepper sauce was served medium-rare. The steak was tender and juicy with enough heat from the pepper sauce to leave a warm tingling in my mouth. Such a strongly flavored sauce might have been better when served on the side.

The Floating Island and the banana tartin with lemongrass ginger ice cream rounded off the meal with a bit of sweetness that didn't overwhelm. The Floating Island served here is more brick-like and not the traditional egg shapes. The light meringue rested in a pool of custard cream with a drizzle of caramel sauce and toasted sliced almonds is delightful.

The lemongrass and ginger ice cream gave the banana tartin an Asian touch that worked well.

IF YOU GO

Le Port Parfume

Shop C, 6-10 Kau U Fong

Central, Hong Kong.

Tel: 852-2824-3018.

Cost per head: HK$400-600 ($52-77).

Recommended: Clams a la Plancha, Scrambled Eggs With Morels, Black Truffle and Oxtail Bouillon, Floating Island.