Often recognized by foodies in Hong Kong as the best restaurant for true Malaysian dishes as well as highlights from Singaporean food, Sabah Malaysian Cuisine in Wan Chai is easy to find. Now more than 12 years in business, they have a loyal following. The restaurant has an unremarkable faade, but there is no mistaking the huge horizontal neon sign above the door.

The decor is simple, with standard chairs and tables of modest proportions. There are just 50 seats and these fill up fast, but most folks don't linger long after they are finished, so the turnover is fairly quick.

It's a bustling place. The service is good and quick, and even when the eatery is very busy the waiting staff are attuned to the customer's needs. Whether it's a little water, some more napkins or a smaller/bigger spoon that you require - they seem ever ready to serve.

The overall atmosphere is tranquil. The roti maker stands proudly in front of his oven to the side of a serving area, and the kitchen staff are all Malaysian. So the dishes are authentic.

For many regular diners Hainanese chicken (HK$168) is on top of the list while stir-fried vegetables, with its seasonal variations, comes a close second. We had stir-fried Malaysia noble green leaves at HK$78. They also make stir-fried morning glory - a firm favorite - when it is in season.

The Malaysian specialty bakuteh (pork ribs soup) is probably the most satisfying of soups - it's great in all weathers and could have magically healing effects in case you are fighting a cold! At Sabah they make this rather well. The soup comes in a tureen, complete with a ladle and served in tiny bowls that are just right for sipping if that's what you prefer (I do!) or with a choice of metal or chinaware spoons, and with little puffy fried bread pieces.

There's prawn mee, Ipoh chicken soup, lots of seafood dishes as well as fish and a curry laksa that is deliciously spicy without being over the top chili-hot. You can have it with hot chili sauce, if you like.

There is quite a variety of freshly-made roti - roti masala potato, chicken murtabak and roti canai with shallots, besides the plain and stuffed varieties. They are all served with curry sauce on the side. I must admit I've been known to order takeaway roti at the end of a dinner to have with the next day's breakfast!

Tasted, tried and approved highlights include a beef rendang traditional Malaysian flavor, deep-fried beef curry, chicken rendang curry with pineapple rice, stir-fried morning glory. The delicious Sabah chicken satay, served with a peanut sauce, is as tasty as any I've ever had.

The desserts are limited to just three: bubur cha cha (HK$45), banana fritters and rice porridge. There's a long drinks menu - mostly fresh juices and specialties of the region such as cendol and iced red beans. Pulled tea costs HK$35, and there's a small collection of wines.

All in all, the consensus is that Sabah has tasty authentic dishes, which come in generous portions and are reasonable priced.

The restaurant is listed in the Michelin Guide Hong Kong & Macau 2016.

The curry laksa served at Sabah is deliciously spicy without being excessively hot.

(HK Edition 06/03/2016 page5)