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All along the watchtower

(China Daily)
Updated: 2008-12-25 08:02

One of the best things about Dandong city is leaving its confines and exploring the surrounding countryside. It's a playground for hikers.

Among many recommended trips are the UNESCO-listed Qingshangou, a pristine reserve with primeval flora, waterfall and lake; or Phoenix Mountain, a sacred place for Taoists and favored haunt of ancient artists.

It takes just 5 yuan and 45 minutes to negotiate Dandong's suburban sprawl and reach Wulong Mountain Forest Park on a minibus.

Alternatively, you can arrange a taxi for about 50 yuan ($7), but it's not as much fun and you will miss seeing the gearbox of your rickety ride being swept clean as you bump along.

Entrance to the park is 35 yuan and you know you've arrived when a huge white statue of the goddess Guanyin looks down on you with all the compassion for which she is famed.

Behind her are the eponymous five dragon peaks of Wulong Mountain in their entire craggy splendor.

On the Saturday I visit there are just two other visitors, a dutiful son taking his mother by the arm and strolling leisurely up the winding road's tough little gradient.

It takes about an hour and at the top is Lingfengchan Temple, the largest shrine to Buddhism in northeast China.

It consists of a series of buildings that lead ever higher until you are in rough alignment with the uppermost peaks of Wulong Mountain at about 700 m.

It's a wonderfully peaceful place. Nothing disturbs the tranquility except monks fishing for contributions.

After a vigorous walk there's nothing better than a natural hot spring and nearby Wulongbei fits the bill.

It's a nondescript town where horse-drawn carts compete with cement trucks for right of way, but the wait for minibuses to get there is worth it.

There are a number of bathing options. A basic room at an "inn" will get you the kind of ceramic tub that many homes possess. It's cheap (15 yuan) but shabby.

A better bet is spending about 50 yuan for two hours at one of the hotels or spas situated along the steaming river.

While not necessarily luxurious the baths are large enough for two and there are beds with clean sheets to relax and cool down on afterward.

The natural hot spring water contains more than 20 trace elements or chemicals, which are said to be therapeutic. They certainly are after a day's hiking.

(China Daily 12/25/2008 page19)