When East meets West

Beijing

The fusion of cuisines can be a work of art, or a total mess. In the hands of a master chef, the union can sparkle, Ye Jun discovers.

What happens when Asian cuisine meets Western in the hands of a good chef? If the recent revamp of the menu at One East, Hilton Beijing, is any indication, it can shine with creativity. The restaurant, so far a stronghold of authentic American cuisine, has now added a touch of the Asian-Pacific.

When you meet the hotel's new executive sous chef for the first time, you may think Jeffrey Siew looks more like a schoolteacher. That is, until you see what he places on the dining plate.

The meal started with a chocolate foie gras "nougat" with Cajun spices. It's been a while since I last tasted foie gras with such silkiness; the chocolate, very similar in texture, enhances the taste sensation. Try spreading the foie gras on the fennel seed brioche, and the flavors will simply blossom in the mouth.

A touch of mango pickles refreshes the palate.

The excitement continues with another starter - a crisp fried lemongrass-infused crab cake, topped with salmon roe, mango salsa and tomato carpaccio.

The crust of the crab cake is not just crisp, but is infused with Thai spices and a deep lemongrass fragrance. Inside, it is full of juicy crab chunks, making it a lovely contrast in flavor and texture.

The main course, a duo of Australian lamb, reflects Siew's background as a Singaporean. Diced lamb leg en croute is paired with Chinese pearl barley, or seed of Job's tears, a popular cereal in China. Cajun-spiced rack of lamb is marinated and slow-cooked to perfect tenderness, while the spiciness is reminiscent of Beijing's favorite Uygur-style roast whole lamb.

The meal ends with a chocolate mousse, served with milk chocolate ice cream, white chocolate tart and crispy candied walnut.

Chef Siew has more than 20 years working at top hotels and restaurants perfecting Pacific Rim cuisine which combines a medley of influences: Pacific Island foods, Asian cooking techniques, California freshness and a basket of other cultural and culinary influences.

Other signature dishes on the revamped menu includes a New Orleans seafood medley, with a wide selection of seafood and three sauces, a confit of Norwegian salmon and crispy Kurobuta pork with a Thai-inspired tamarind glaze.

The restaurant has also launched a brand-new chocolate set menu, featuring the chocolate foie gras "nougat", coffee-braised beef short-ribs with chocolate sauce, and the chocolate mousse.

The set menu is available only for dinner, at 388 yuan ($58) a person, plus 15-percent surcharge.