Cookbook author finds the magic in vegetables

When she moved from Singapore to Seattle for college, Patricia Tanumihardja says, she was "shocked to learn that many of the fresh fruits and vegetables I had taken for granted back home were hard to come by."

Singapore is a tropical island that imports most of its food, so many of the same items were available year-round. In Seattle, many things were available only at certain times of the year. Quickly entranced by the "farm-to-table" movement, she eventually even ran a farmer's market in Pacific Grove, California.

However, the eating mindset of her native Asia stuck with her.

"One-pot meals like nasi goreng (Indonesian fried rice) and mee soto (noodles in turmeric-spiced broth) featured rice or noodles studded with tiny bits of meat and showered with fresh vegetables, herbs, spices and chiles. This is a perfect example of the peripheral role meat plays in the average Asian diet."

That works, she says, because Asian cuisines have a way with vegetables, often mingling contrary flavors to play with the four basic tastes of sweet, sour, salty and bitter.

"If you've had a bowl of tom yum soup or a plate of sweet-sour pork," she says, "you'll agree that Asian cooks are masters at balancing these tastes."

For example, she adds, "Harmonizing the contrasting flavors of ingredients like palm sugar (sweet), soy sauce (salty), tamarind juice (sour) and chili paste (spicy) elevates a vegetable dish from ordinary to oh-so-delicious."

Another tip: Oils infused with garlic, onion and chili add a whole new dimension to a vegetable dish. Subtle gems in the book include how to make roasted veggie stock, healthier eggplant "meatballs" (bake them instead of frying), and lots of do-ahead tips.

Of Chinese descent, Tanumihardja was born in Indonesia and raised in Singapore, so her embrace of East and Southeast Asian dishes is wide and eager. She's traveled in Japan, Vietnam, Indonesia, Malaysia, India, Thailand and the Philippines to explore the cuisines of those countries. Research for her previous book, The Asian Grandmother's Cookbook, gave her the opportunity to learn first-hand from the bearers of those food cultures.

The author's real pleasure at engaging with local farmers wherever she goes shines through in the new book. Meanwhile, the treasure trove of recipes - organized by seasonal availability will make it easy to get lost in the joy of vegetables.

Green Tea Rice Soup

The Japanese name for this dish, ochazuke, means "tea and pickles" - referring to the key ingredients: Japanese green tea (not macha, though) and pickles. Beyond that, anything goes. The pickles are a free for all - radishes, cucumbers, carrots ... take your pick! Salmon is a popular traditional topping. For this vegan version, add any cooked (grilled, steamed, roasted) vegetables like carrots, green beans or squash. The typical Japanese garnishes - trefoil and shiso - are a little tough to find, so I use mint or watercress.

Prep time: 15 minutes

Makes: 4 servings

4 cups (600 g) warm cooked white or brown Japanese sushi rice (leftover rice works just fine)

8 teaspoons loose-leaf Japanese green tea like genmaicha, sencha, or hojicha

4 cups (1 liter) filtered or spring water

1 green onion (scallion), green and white parts, chopped

2 tablespoons toasted sesame seeds

Wasabi paste, to taste (optional)

Soy sauce, to taste (optional)

Tips

If you want to make it more of a meal, you can add scrambled eggs seasoned with a splash of soy sauce and mirin.

This dish can be made with seaweed stock instead of tea.

For a cool summertime treat, serve Green Tea Rice Soup with cold rice and cold tea.

Rice toppings

? cup (30 g) crushed savory Japanese rice crackers

? cup (5 g) shredded or crumbled nori or kale chips

? cup (50 g) soy sauce and vinegar pickled padishes or cucumber pickles

? cup (15 g) baby arugula (rocket) or mizuna leaves

1 cup (150 g) cooked, sliced carrots or other vegetables

Handful of mint or watercress leaves, torn or chopped

Divide the cooked rice among 4 large bowls. Have diners create their own flavors by adding toppings and seasonings to their liking.

Brew the tea by placing the tea leaves in a strainer in a large teapot. Heat the water in a kettle until it comes just short of boiling, about 185 F (85 C) for genmaicha. Steep the tea for 1 to 2 minutes. The exact amount of time will depend on the particular tea and personal preference. You may have to make several batches of tea depending on the size of your teapot. The ratio of tea leaves to hot water should be 2 teaspoons tea to 1 cup (250 ml) water.

Pour enough hot tea into each bowl to reach halfway up the rice. Allow the rice and tea to sit for about a minute to allow the flavors to meld.

Garnish with green onions and sesame seeds. Stir in a small dollop (about teaspoon) of wasabi and/or a splash (about ? teaspoon) of soy sauce, if desired. Eat immediately.