Choosing fast and cheap over high-end chic in Yokohama

At the CupNoodles Museum, you can make your own customized instant ramen. Photo provided to China Daily

Hole in the wall joint

About a 10-minute walk west of the Motomachi-Chukagai train station, I found one of my favorite B-grade gourmet places: the atmospheric pub Hazuki, a good example of an anaba, or hole in the wall. The wood-paneled dcor and vintage beer posters are reminiscent of 1950s drinking establishments on military-occupied Okinawa. Late one Thursday evening, my friends and I got a back booth, removed our shoes per local custom and proceeded to sample the extensive menu of traditional Okinawan bar food.

There was umi budou, or sea grapes, a kind of pearly seaweed; jimami tofu, a rich, creamy tofu made with peanuts; and rafute, a marinated, slow-cooked pork belly (600 to 700 yen a plate; our meal came to about 1,800 yen per person). The emerald clusters of sea grapes popped like bubbles in my mouth - Okinawans call it "green caviar" - and I was impressed by the generous cuts of tender pork belly. The big glass mugs of beer were cheap, as were the cocktails made with awamori, a distilled spirit native to Okinawa (drinks start at 500 yen).

The cheapest place to drink in Yokohama is probably on the Kirin Brewery factory tour - both the booze and the tour are free. But I'd argue that the cultural value and unique atmosphere that come with visiting a local B-grade anaba are well worth the extra few yen.

The New York Times