Nanjing retains its history, charm in modern era

Nanjing boasts a 600-year-old city wall 35 kilometers in length. 350 million bricks were used in its construction. During the 1950s and 60s it suffered from neglect, and later the city's rapid growth. Many bricks disappeared. In 2010 the local government launched a restoration project, resulting in 80,000 bricks being returned. I explored parts of the wall in 1996, particularly around the southern Gate of China. This was a complex structure with four sets of gates, making it virtually impregnable. Amazingly, it could house 4,000 soldiers. Walking on the walls, I stopped regularly to examine bricks with makers' inscriptions and dates of production.

From the walls were contrasting views of Nanjing. Modern residential and commercial buildings were finished or under construction, but what really intrigued me were the tightly packed alleys, some accessed via moongate directly below, between the walls and the waters of the navigable Qinhuai River. Boats were tied up directly below tree-covered cliffs with the wall running above. South of the gate, cyclists were crossing Changgan Bridge before heading off around the edge of the walls.

The strength of the walls were again a reminder of the many troubled periods the city has gone through. When I visit a new place I try to see its museums and memorial parks to learn the history, which at times was certainly tragic. Having read about Nanjing's experiences in 1937 I decided to visit the Memorial Hall of the Nanjing Massacre. It was somber and thought-provoking, and provided another quiet moment for reflection. I returned to my cafe near Nanjing University, the area thronged with students from a wealth of countries enjoying and appreciating the friendship and welcome the city was giving them. Talking to some, there was an obvious joy over being able to study in Nanjing. I was in agreement — and a bit envious.