Nanjing retains its history, charm in modern era

The tomb, whose design encompasses both traditional and modern architecture, sits on Purple Mountain (Zijueshan), a forested hill rising on the city's eastern fringe. Heading there I noticed how many of the city's streets were shaded by trees whose branches formed a canopy above the carriageway. From a distinctive gateway of Fujian marble, the tomb was accessed by a tree-lined stairway of 392 steps. A tough climb in relentless summer heat, but well worth the effort. Having worked in Guangzhou and learning of the role Sun had played in China's modern history, I sat quietly for a while outside the mausoleum.

For over 30 years China's railways have fascinated me, and this fascination continues today, with its world-leading growth of the high-speed network. Nanjing, however, has an important reminder of one of the country's earlier engineering achievements-the Yangtze River Bridge. Designed and built entirely by Chinese engineers, it opened in 1968. Previously there was no direct link between Beijing and Shanghai; boats had to transfer passengers and cargo across the river. Having seen monochrome photographs of it during my school days, I desired not just to visit the bridge but to walk across to the far side of the river.

A long stairway led up to the roadway; another, to a viewing platform. Fishermen worked along the river banks while passenger and cargo vessels passed under the bridge. Travelers on the passing public buses looked on at amazement as I kept pushing onward, despite the intense heat. Heading back across, I caught a bus into town before heading straight toward an alley that called itself "Pinyin Street" near Shanghai Lu. I had formed a bond with a cafe there, for its cold drinks and great food enjoyed while listening to familiar tunes — including a 1963 hit by American singer Bobby Vinton, Blue Velvet. I was reminded of Yunnan's Dali or Guangxi's Yangshuo.