Dali in 1995: A personal 'Heaven on Earth'

Retracing my steps I came to Huguo Lu. Over the years it became known as “Foreigner Street” due to the number of delightful cafes attracting a worldwide clientele. They offered a wide range of inexpensive Bai, Chinese regional and international cuisine such as pizzas. I loved the fried corn with red peppers, the excellent freshly baked breads, the delicious range of spicy potato dishes and the many great soups. Vegetarian dishes were popular, and the cafes served as a meeting place for travelers. In the days before personal digital communication, some would offer the use of computers with internet connections so guests could contact their friends and families back home. They also offered local tours, farmhouse visits, transport information and ticketing. I loved the outdoor breakfast experience, even in midwinter, at the Old Wooden House (where I also rang in the millennium). There I would sip black Yunnan coffee while relaxing on bamboo chairs watching the constant movement of people heading along the alley. In the evening, the owner would perform Bai music on an erhu. At an altitude of 1,900 meters, the climate is generally mild all year, although winter evenings can be cold. Midsummer is the rainy season when cafes such as Marley’s provided a perfect shelter for writing diary notes, stopping to chat with fellow travelers while experiencing the culinary delights on offer and learning more of the local Bai culture.

However, sitting outside one cafe in late 1998, I was reminded that Dali and Yunnan sit within a geologically active area. I felt the ground shaking, heard a strange noise and watched my drink fall over. People came running out into the street, and then everything went very quiet and still. I sat for a while and saw there were no noticeable aftershocks. As I started walking around, I also found no obvious structural damage. The epicenter of the earthquake was apparently quite far away. Locals told me of one in 1925 that was particularly destructive, but buildings in 1998 were much stronger. Sadly, in 1996 Lijiang was badly damaged by temblors. Cangshan, rising above Dali, is a reminder of the active tectonic movements and geological activity in this part of southwestern China. The mountain is now a national park. That evening, and for several more, I had to sleep in the guesthouse lobby along with the staff. As a geographer, I had long studied earth movements and there in Dali I experienced my first earthquake!