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Hikers take tracks to new adventures

Disused rail lines in Beijing becoming increasingly popular

By Xin Wen | China Daily | Updated: 2024-01-23 06:57
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Disheartening scenes

Railway enthusiast Gao Yuan, 40, said it is disheartening to see lines abandoned and disappearing in Beijing, and he hopes the local government's plan to extend the life of century-old railways will be implemented soon.

From 2019 to 2022, Gao hiked four times along the 53 km of the Beijing Mentougou Railway in all four seasons.

He is interested in exploring stations and other locations along this line.

"My great-grandfather once helped build a section of a narrow-gauge line in Shanxi province, and this is perhaps why I've always been interested in trains from a young age," Gao said.

He added that while he was growing up, the rhythm of trains on railway tracks gave him a sense of security.

"Trains likely have an inherent appeal to people on a psychological level, which also intrigues me," he said.

Gao's exploration of the Beijing Mentougou Railway began at Xihuangcun station, near where he and his family relocated to Beijing from Shijiazhuang, capital of Hebei province, seven years ago.

One day, when Gao discovered the station and recognized that it had a captivating past because of its bygone appearance, he decided to research its history.

Historical records showed that as a branch line of the Beijing Zhangjiakou Railway, the Beijing Mentougou Railway arguably operated a passenger train over the shortest distance in China.

Known as the Xiaopiaoche, or voucher train, the service consisted of a locomotive and a single carriage. It was named Xiaopiaoche, as all tickets had to be purchased onboard from the sole train attendant, who also served as the ticket collector, rather than being bought from the station.

Built initially to transport coal from western Beijing to the city's downtown area, the line's role changed after the founding of the People's Republic of China in 1949.As the carrying of raw coal declined, the voucher train became the primary mode of transportation along the line, operating as a commuter service for coal mine employees and their relatives.

However, in the 21st century, coal mines in suburban areas of the city began to close. As a result, demand for the service fell, leading to it being suspended in 2008.

Gao said the local government has reportedly tried to develop the disused Beijing Mentougou Railway and scenic spots along the line as a well-managed tourist attraction.

"But due to heavy rains and flooding last summer, additional investment is required to restore the line to its original appearance," he said.

"Furthermore, if items along the line are not designated as cultural relics, certain attractions, such as the water tower, battlements, or the old shop in a deserted coal mine, could disappear permanently."

Gao recalled a hike in September 2019 with his two children — one in first grade and the other in third grade — to visit the ancient Hongyuan Store in Wangping town, Mentougou.

"The store's decoration, furnishings and products were particularly distinctive, as they were presented in a style popular in the 1980s," he said, adding that the store triggered nostalgic memories.

Up to the 1990s, Hongyuan Store was the largest shopping destination in western Beijing. However, as coal mines closed, customers rarely visited the business, and it was finally turned into a creative industry park.

Gao is also keen to explore obsolete stations, tunnels and other remains of the past along the deserted rail line.

"If you visit these old buildings when few people are around, the atmosphere is so peaceful," he said.

Located in Beijing's Shijingshan district, Xihuangcun station, the easternmost point of the Beijing Mentougou Railway, still has one freight train passing through it each week, but all other sections of the railway are no longer in operation. During the pandemic, the Yexi section of the line became popular with visitors due to its convenient transportation links.

Gao said, "Due to the rising number of visitors, the gaps between the crossties on the line were filled with gravel and sand, making the hiking trail much easier to walk on."

He hopes that although part of the railway experienced flooding in the summer, the local government will soon repair the line.

"After the repair work and related development are completed, we may no longer be allowed to hike along the railway. However, this is a good thing for the line, which is more than a century old, as at least it will be able to continue operating," Gao said.

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