Colombian coffee brews up a buzz in China's market
Sebastian Ortiz, better known in the coffee world as "Bozo", has noticed a quiet shift in Colombia's coffee sector: more inquiries, more conversations, and more interest coming from China's growing specialty-coffee community. And this is driving production and export growth, facilitated by one of the best crops in years.
A Colombian barista and roaster who works with both producers and exporters, Ortiz said China has quickly become one of the most significant and increasingly influential destinations for Colombia's high-quality Arabica beans.
The growth of the Chinese market should allow Colombia to diversify its exports, particularly as pressure grows from the traditionally strong US market, which this year imposed a series of tariffs on imports of the bean.
Demand from China has grown over the past few years. China was Colombia's 18th export destination in 2019. It became the sixth-largest export destination by 2023, importing around 540,000 60-kilogram bags. In the first quarter of 2024, China was the second-largest importer of Colombian coffee.
China's coffee imports have been rising steadily, growing by 130,800 tons between 2020 and 2024, a 6.5-fold rise, and the market is projected to reach 1 trillion yuan ($141 billion) this year, according to a report by iiMedia, a market intelligence provider. Domestic chains such as Luckin Coffee and Cotti have fueled the boom, battling other chains like Starbucks for market share.
"It's a huge market for two key reasons: First, because there is a large number of people in China, which offers massive purchasing potential. Second, because China has opened up to new customs and specialty coffee has been very well received," Ortiz said.
Ortiz notes that Chinese consumers prefer the softer, nuanced profiles of Colombian coffee.
"Buyers like it to have soft, delicate and floral flavors," he said. "They don't look for very strong flavors. That's why they prefer medium or light roasts so the coffee flavor is not so intense."
Colombian coffee primarily consists of Arabica beans, known for common tasting notes such as caramel, nut and chocolate, as well as bright fruit acidity.
"Special coffee microlots are also shipped, highly valued in China for their traceability and premium quality," said Juan Esteban Cardona Yepes, commercial director of Mantagro, a company that produces and exports green and roasted coffee. "To a lesser extent, roasted and soluble coffee is exported, but the Chinese market demands above all, green grains for local roasters and coffee chains."
Trade broadened
Trade between Colombia and China has also broadened.
Ortiz has noticed more affordable coffee-brewing equipment coming from China, including grinders and filter devices widely used by both professionals and home brewers.
"These products are easy to obtain and inexpensive," Ortiz said. "This has helped people learn and become much more interested in coffee preparation. This isn't just happening with professionals, but also with people at home."
The third-largest coffee producer in the world, Colombia, is experiencing one of its strongest coffee years in a long time, according to the National Federation of Coffee Growers of Colombia. Production rose 17 percent to 14.87 million 60-kg bags between October 2024 and September 2025, boosted by favorable weather and crop renovation. Export values also jumped between January and August, driven by high international prices and, among the key factors, demand from China.
"The market for specialty coffee in China is very important," Ortiz added. "This growing taste for specialty coffee has led us to see more and more Asian buyers."
The writer is a freelance journalist for China Daily.
