Town in the Air

Climbing up Qiyun Mountain is pleasant, as the slope is gentle. There were not many tourists the day we visited, which made our experience all the more special. The giggles and shouts of a group of high school students were the only distraction as we headed along the mountain path.

Soon after we passed Santian (Three Heavens) Gate, a crescent-shaped hamlet emerged at the end of the vista halfway across the peak in front of us. 'That's Yuehua Street!' A friend shouted with excitement.

Yuehua (Moonlight) Street is actually a community of Taoists and their families. Taoists are generally celibate, but the local sect, Tianyi, allows marriage. They're not even required to be vegetarian. In fact, their material lives don't differ much at all from those of locals living beyond the cloisters.

There are several Taoist temples in the wider village, the most revered being Taisu Palace, built at the order of Qing Emperor Jiaqing (1760-1820). Local residents, professional Taoists and their families have embraced commercialism and tourism as a source of income – some have opened home stay businesses and restaurants for pilgrims and the wider public. It's highly recommended to spend a night in the village. Locals say the moon looks so close at night, and the gathering mist envelops the whole area to such an extent in the morning that visitors could be mistaken for believing they are in a fairyland.

Unfortunately we were on a tight schedule and had to conclude our tour within the day. 'After water fills the cup, it begins to spill over; when the moon reaches fullness, it begins to wane.' As this Taoism maxim says, there is no perfection in this world, and the best we could do was follow the natural course of life and be happy. Our lot, it seemed, was to move from Qiyun that day. But we all agreed we’d return.

Scenic Spots:

Taisu Palace:

Taisu Palace is a spectacular complex measuring 1,600 square meters, built at the order of Qing Emperor Jiaqing. The original building was destroyed in the 1960s and a reconstruction project was launched in 1994. Following a formal prayer ritual, it opened to the public in 1997. It stages Taoist observances from the first day of the seventh lunar month to the first day of the tenth lunar month every year. The session starts with a three-day fast for all members of the local monastery, followed by a prayer session for the blessing of God Xuantian for the monastery and all local Taoists. One of the biggest events in the period is on the 19th day of the sixth lunar month, which is believed the date when the Goddess of Mercy achieved immortality. A lavish celebration is held on this day, on which almost all followers in the region gather at the temple. The smoke from the incense they burn envelops the mountain.

Xianglu (Incense Burner) Peak:

The small peak facing the Taisu Palace. It resembles an incense burner, and rises directly in front of the temple, giving it superstitious significance.

Xiaohutian:

A cavern on a bluff behind a stone gate tower, hollowed out in the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644). Below is a deep abyss. It is said to be the site where Taoists could achieve immortality when their practice and understanding of the faith had reached a certain point.

Zhulian (Pearl Curtain) Spring:

On a cliff directly below the Zhenxiandongfu a slender flow of water spurts out of nowhere and scatters a myriad of crystal water droplets onto the rocks below, before cascading into the Bilian (Green Lotus) Pool.

Transport:

Qiyun Mountain is about 30 km from Tunxi district of Huangshan city. Shuttles commute between the Tunxi Bus Depot and the mountain on regular basis everyday. The drive is about an hour.

Specialty Food:

Locally grown herbs and other produce, such as the purplevine (Wisteria sinensis) flower, bracken, bamboo shoots and ham, contribute greatly to local Qiyun cuisine. A tiny fish from local rivulets and starch extracted from arrowroot (Radix puerariae) roots are also a staple. Indigenous snacks include Jixi Caigao, a steamed spongy cake, Dongmitang, a pop rice candy, and dry Toufu-wrapped shrimps.

(chinatoday.com.cn)