Rediscovering the historic city of Xi’an

Recently, looking over images shot in 1997, I decided to return southwest to try and rediscover Xi’an. Sometimes friends suggest not retracing earlier journeys, as structural transformation may have removed what were significant joys and precious memories. I am glad I did, as even though there have been changes, much proved very positive. It also helped me realize how much easier travel in China now is compared with my “adventurous” 1997 moments.

21 years ago, there was no digital, online assistance. Often I was relying on guidebooks written years before. Arriving at Xi’an railway station following a tiring overnight journey from Xining, I took a taxi downtown. The hotel I read about had changed into a noisy restaurant with a few rooms that did not appeal. Walking around for another hour, I found accommodation at a reasonable hotel east of the Bell Tower — now closed and unoccupied. It was still standing last week, but maybe not for long. Buying train tickets involved going to the railway station three days before departure in the hope of obtaining a ticket for one of the few trains to Beijing.

Fast forward to 2018. In a Beijing cafe using my smartphone, I could check hotel availability, view room photos, book my stay and receive instant confirmation. I checked train schedules, chose a time and could either book online or go to a local ticket office to purchase a return ticket.

Beijing Metro Line 9 led me straight into the capital’s vast West Station in time for a coffee. I boarded a high-speed train and 4 hours and 30 minutes later I was delivered in comfort to Xi’an North Station. Metro Line 2 then led straight from the arrival hall to Bell Tower Station. After a five-minute walk, I reached my hotel in an alley directly opposite the Drum Tower. The stresses of those earlier travels are now distant memories.