Rediscovering the historic city of Xi’an

A striking feature of Xi’an is its well-preserved city wall. Reconstructed in the 14th century, during the Ming period its layout was based on a Tang Dynasty inner imperial palace. On my recent visit, Metro Line 2 took me straight to Yongningmen, the massive southern double gate protected by a moat. I crossed straight into the fortified structure and had a coffee before climbing the long series of steps onto Xian’s wide walls. The southern view was of a modern, international city. But little seemed to have changed as I turned to gaze northward over the tiled rooftops of the older Beilin area centered around “Shuyuanmen Pedestrianised Street”.

Later I would travel, again by metro, to another of Xi’an’s famed sights: the more than 1,000–year-old Big Goose Pagoda. This is a structure that has withstood the ravages of time and earthquakes, and since my earlier visits has seen the entire surrounding area metamorphosed into a historic park enclosing a square with one of the largest water fountains in Asia. A people-friendly environment, the area attracts many locals for exercise, dancing and community activities.

Xi’an for me was a personal visit, allowing an opportunity to observe how the city has changed and modernized while retaining its cultural heritage. It also revealed how easy getting around China can be for the solo traveler — but maybe less of an adventure compared to 1997. Xi’an is a city I would return to, sooner rather than later.