Exploration and discovery at Yunnan's Erhai Lake

For my first venture to Dali in 1995, I scheduled it to include a Monday. Why Monday? It was market day at Shaping, 30 kilometers to the north. Normally a quiet village at the head of the lake, a bustling market would congregate on a nearby hill. I had read descriptions of how it attracted groups of people from various ethnic nationalities living in the vicinity. Many would come down by horseback from fairly remote mountain villages and communities, at that time only accessible by tracks.

It was raining when I headed to the market by mini-bus, but it was still a fascinating scene. Many women walked alongside the road, carrying bamboo baskets supported by colorful head straps. Getting closer to Shaping, I saw more and more horses — some roped together in line, carrying sacks of goods to and from the market.

Despite the weather and the muddy conditions underfoot, the entire area was a photographer's dream. I tried to work out the different nationalities: Bai, Naxi, Black Yi, Tibetan and so many others. 1995 was a time of few tourists at the market, giving it a much more natural, local feel. Over subsequent years returning with British geographical study groups or on my own, I could see changes happening. But in 1995 I was transfixed by the range of fishing merchandise such as large bamboo fish traps, or wooden saddles and gear for horses. Rows of stalls acted as "pop-up" dining areas where locals worked their way through bowls of steaming, spicy noodles, meat kebabs and grilled potatoes coated with "mouth-blowing" red pepper sauce. Steamed buns, along with local flat breads, were freshly prepared as accompaniment.