Walking along ancient structures at Jiayuguan

Along with the eastern Juyong Pass and Shanhai Pass, it was one of the main gates on the Great Wall, and known as the “First and Greatest Pass under Heaven” — not to be confused with the “First Pass under Heaven” at Shanhaiguan.

On my first morning — after a quick street food breakfast — I started walking. Heading along a tree-shaded highway in the direction of the fort, I basked in a moment of beautiful sunshine. Apart from a couple tour groups from Guangdong, I was on my own. It was quiet and peaceful as I moved along arched passageways looking for good shots of that vast structure. Built partly of earth, apparently 99,999 bricks were used in the pass’ construction. Two gates allowed access — one in the east and the other in the west, the latter having an inscription in Chinese characters for Jiayuguan.

Ultimately I reached the final structure. Directly below was where not only camel caravans would pass through, but also criminals and disgraced court officials. Banished into exile, they would emerge through the Gate of Conciliation. Burdened with a fearsome reputation in past times it was known as the “Gate of Demons” and even regarded a “Gate of Sighs”. An archway tunneled through this outer wall, opening out to barren wastelands. Its walls retain many writings from those exiled into the desolate, dreary wastes beyond.