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Kunming, China's 'City of Eternal Spring'

By Bruce Connolly | chinadaily.com.cn | Updated: 2018-12-22 09:41
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Entrance to Yuantong Temple Kunming 1995. [Photo by Bruce Connolly/chinadaily.com.cn]

Kunming I was starting to enjoy, but I also wanted to discover what remained of the historic city, a search for older Kunming. Soon I was slowly wandering around the Muslim area which apparently could trace its roots back to the 13th century. Buildings traditionally were two floors with red wooden facades. Open-fronted shops displayed household copper goods spilling out onto the pavements. People sat chatting, while others cycled along the bustling alleys. Dried meats, a Yunnan specialty, hung outside from bamboo poles. Yet as I walked so I saw modern Kunming increasingly rising.

The city's Yuantong Temple, over a thousand years old, was somewhere I would visit regularly. A delightful place, the aroma of incense accompanied by sporadic chanting created a relaxing, soporific atmosphere. Overlooking its main pond crowded with golden fish, I discovered a vegetarian restaurant. I sat there endlessly sampling several authentic culinary creations, sipping tea while just letting time drift past. There, alongside Buddhist monks, I increasingly noticed people in ethnic costume. Yes, Yunnan was revealing some of its fascinations.

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