Shanxi - a passionate journey to the Yellow River

Later I would visit the large Wang's Grand Courtyard in Jingsheng Town. Appearing so extensive in scale and surrounded by a strong grey brick wall it resembled more a massive fortress set in a spectacular location facing towards the Mianshan Mountain. Entering from a small gate, the compound simply seemed to become larger and larger, indeed a whole day would be required to explore its multitude of rooms. Indeed it would be quite easy to lose oneself amidst its architectural finery. Finding it quieter than the Qiao Courtyard, I loved walking alone through its vast at times empty passages and up onto the walls. Beyond an agricultural plain stretched towards Mianshan, while directly below the walls it was possible to look down on entrances into former cave dwellings, some still used for storage. The adjoining small town looked fascinating to explore but I was heading across the valley to a truly fascinating location, Zhangbi Village.

Zhangbi seemed like stepping back in time, indeed walking its lanes, it felt that history was written in stone. Much of its construction that included not just domestic buildings, but subterranean passages, bridges, fortifications, a temple and more were built of stone. If only those stones could talk, there must be so m much history to discover of it. Dating back 1,600 years it resembled a miniature castle that included housing, production and worship. The surrounding area has several ancient and historic sites also worthy of exploration. I was to learn Zhangbi's construction follows theories of traditional Chinese geomancy and astrology. Surrounded by a 10-meter wall and deep gullies on three sides, it was easy to defend but difficult to attack. A network of tunnels, capable in the event of an attack, of accommodating up to 30,000 people, extended like cobwebs under the village. For me as a photographer it was a location I could easily have spent all day, not just documenting its uniqueness in architecture but its local people some descended from families going back many generations at Zhangbi. However, it was noticeable there were few young people sitting around its earthen colored stone and brick alleys, a story repeating itself across rural China today.