A trip to Tibet that defied expectation

The  Yarlung Zangbo River descends from high altitude cold deserts through scrublands to coniferous forest before turning abruptly south and cascading via great canyons towards the Indian subcontinent, where it is known as the Brahmaputra. Passing through the large Tibetan areas of Shannan and Nyingchi, climate along lower levels of the valley is warm enough for arable cultivation. This creates landscapes very different from the stereotyped images of Tibet — vast highlands mostly devoid of habitation.

This area, occupying the middle reaches of the Yarlung Valley, is known as Shannan, literally “south of the mountains”. Particularly in summer the area receives warmer, moist air from the Indian Ocean. This, combined with a secure water supply, facilitated arable farming. Shannan is one of the longest-settled areas within Tibet, very different from the expected norm of nomadic upland yak grazings. Early irrigation channels helped spread water across the valley floors, transforming it into the main grain-producing area of Tibet. Arable farming in turn led to more settled communities centered around compact villages and small towns, with a much more permanent feel compared to the vast areas stretching north.