A trip to Tibet that defied expectation

At a riverside pier, large open-topped boats powered by former tractor engines were lined up. Everything had to cross the river by boat. That included not only people but farm animals, pieces of machinery and everyday necessities. The water level was low, many sand banks were exposed and we would sail against the downriver current. I had plenty of time not just to look at my fellow passengers, but try to share some pleasant greetings. Some, spinning prayer wheels while fingering wooden beads, were obviously heading to Samye. Others were villagers, but all were quite curious about me and would try to offer some food, including the traditional tsampa. From the tree-shaded far shore a mini-bus carried everyone along a sandy track past a small village before the monastery buildings came into view. An air of excitement fell over my fellow passengers.